When I introduced my husband Mike to the world of massage, it was on our honeymoon 23 years ago at the Fairmont Orchid in Hawaii. It was our first venture into the wonders of spa Big Island Hawaii style. 

We talked about the different options: where would we get our massage (near the ocean, in the waterfall hales, inside) and what type of massage to get (Swedish massage, deep tissue massage, foot reflexology?) It can be overwhelming when you look at one of those spa menus, and even daunting for first timers. We decided he would do his deep tissue massage in the waterfall hales, and I would do my Swedish massage at the ocean’s edge which is my favorite place in the world. 

Even though I’d recently graduated from massage school, I was still relatively new to the world of different options. You’re naked, laying under a sheet, and dedicating a large amount of time and money so that instinctual voice inside that needed to fight off tigers reminds you of your vulnerability.

Mike, however, was completely new to the world of massage and I think mainly went along with the whole massage thing to humor me. As we sat in the waiting room sipping fruit-infused tea and nibbling snacks (note: they now have the most delicious homemade granola you’ve ever had in your life and can’t get anywhere else!), we planned a debriefing meet-up location after our massages at the Spa Without Walls, which despite the stories I’m about to tell you, is in my opinion, the best spa on the Big Island for the past 23 years. We’ve tried others, but we keep coming back.

After robe time in the garden, Mike’s male therapist appeared and whisked him off to the waterfall hale.  These are such sensorial delights there, like the rush of water cascading down, the scent of plumeria wafting through with the Hawaiian breeze. That day, though, the breeze was more like the beginning of a hurricane, a detail to pay attention to in booking outdoors.

My female therapist came and took me to the oceanside. Sounds peaceful, right? Those gale force winds distracted her much of the time which distracted me. The canvas sides of the seaside hut were flapping so hard, one whole side came unsnapped.  My sheet, covering my naked body, was blowing every which way. As if that wasn’t enough, halfway through the massage I heard this deep voice, looked up, and there was a fisherman emerging from the surf in front of me carrying some really large sea creature he’d just caught.

In the waterfall hale, Mike was having quite an adventure. He’d asked for a deep tissue massage which in theory seems like a good idea. We both really love deep pressure, but the issue is in order to get that deep pressure, many therapists need to use their elbows and forearms to get into muscle tissue. When the massage therapist asked Mike if it was okay if he used his feet, Mike agreed, thinking that was common. (It’s not, by the way.) The massage therapist hopped in a jolting movement on Mike’s back, held on to the top of the hale, and rocked back and forth so fiercely the whole hale shook like an earthquake. What made this worse was that Mike could hear people walking down the path talking and giggling. Mike didn’t know what to think, and to this day, whenever anyone asks to use their feet, the answer is no. (And, we now ask for hales in the louder waterfall section.)

We still laugh at his first massage. I’m glad he didn’t give up, and that our first spa adventures didn’t discourage us from trying again or trying new types of massage. We’ve now got our three favorite massage therapists at the Spa Without Walls. I’m sure there are others, but we always come back to (shhhh!) Audrey and Alicia. Last time, I discovered an amazing foot reflexology therapist who I will use again. When a therapist does foot reflexology, it is an incredible healing for the entire body. In fact, if you are nervous about a first massage, foot reflexology with a very talented therapist, would be a great way to – eh hem – get your feet wet. The foot reflexologist at The Spa Without Walls comes from a lineage of therapists in her family that have taught her in such a powerful way I still think about it. To be clear, foot reflexology is not a foot rub. It’s actually working all the internal organs on the body from the feet.

The property at The Spa Without Walls is stunning and is worth a meal or just a walk to check it out if you are not staying on site. The bonus (yet another one) of the Spa Without Walls is the view at sunset.

The view at midday from the beachside sand restaurant with the so-fresh fish tacos. 

Even in the morning as you look out into the lagoon at yoga on surfboards in the water. There is never, ever a bad view – unless, of course, you see a fisherman emerging out of the water in front of your seaside massage.

And yet, we both can’t wait to get back to the Spa Without Walls, to Audrey and Alicia (and the amazing foot reflexology therapist whose name I will remember next time!) They have been closed through Covid Season, and just reopened November 13, 2020. To me, this is a sign that getting to the Big Island of Hawaii – and my heart space of Mauna Lani – will be easier, and I am one step closer to getting that name of the foot reflexology therapist.

LOCATION: 

The Spa Without Walls, Fairmont Orchid  – Big Island Hawaii, Mauna Lani region